This week will be quit windy.
When we think “Windy” , Ocean lovers directly think “Waves” !
Let’ s talk a little bit about physical oceanography …
Waves are disturbances in the ocean that transit energy from one place to another. The most familiar types or waves are generated by wind on the ocean surface.
Wave properties to understand better
A group of waves consists of several crest separated by troughs. The height of the waves is called the amplitude, the distance between successive wave crest is know as the wavelength, and the time between successive crew is the period. Ocean waves behave like Light rays. They are reflected or refracted by obstacles.
Wave propagation & Arrival on shore
- As waves propagate across the open ocean, wind generated waves maintain a constant speed, which is unaffected by depth until they reach shallow water.
- As waves approach a shore, the motion they generate at depth begins to interact with the sea floor. This slows the waves down and causes the crest in a series of waves to bunch up, we called it Schoaling. It occurs as waves enter shallow water. The wave length and speed both decrease, but the wave gains height. When the crest gets too steep, it curls and breaks.
Your thoughts on this?